Thursday, 12 April 2012

TAKE FIVE . . . THEN TAKE THREE . . .

I have not got enough time on my hands to go all out on what I think about all my latest forays around the city of Madrid.  I am indeed a little fearful that on the not so touristy side I might go for the jugular on, for example, the state medical services (good grief), more strikes (heavens above) or residential building standards (for goodness sake). Anyhow, I will (more calmingly) just concentrate for now on three discreet little places worth poking your greedy little nose into when you come visit the fabulously unorthodox city that is Madrid.  Buen Provecho!!


There are no end of traditional Tavernas in Madrid which do a fine job at a great price.  The further way you get from the touristy core though, it is fair to say that things only get better, both in terms of service, product and price.  The traditional taverna is a place where you could effectively camp out all day and have breakfast dinner and supper and then grab a few beers and pass the rest of the evening stuck in garrulous conversation while throwing your eye over the large screen TV blaring out the commentary on the latest league match. Frankly, I hate soccer.  My unabashedly biased view is that there is an unhealthy addiction to it in Madrid.  It seems to act as some sort of tribal mechanism whereby Madrileños get to pound their chest and express their collective masculinity in an overtly tactile manner and without a care in the world as to whether they are causing disruption or disturbance or nuisance to other citizens.  Well at least there is one taverna where the TV is mostly OFF. Yahoo.  But that is not the only reason to like the Taverna de Moncloa at 45, Calle Andres Mellado.  They have totally delicious, (sinful even), croquettes, Andalucian bread with tomatoes and garlic, great jarritas of beer, a gregarious and friendly staff all day and night, a buzzy friendly mixed clientele old and young and . . . well, they just have a great thing going on.  Their coffee and pulga breakfast deal at €2.20 is a real treat to start the day (that is a cafè con leche, a slice of warm freshly made tortilla and a fine fat sandwich of your choice (the patè is my favourite!).  The best time for supper is about 8.30pm (you need to book!). Yummy yum yum.  Come out stuffed, sated, fed and watered (read "beered") on great home cooking for as little as €10.00!  I do not know how they do it, but I just hope they keep on doing it (and without the football blaring!).  Now where is my wallet . . . (You can book on Tel: 91 549 11 43)


Love Italian? Love Sapori di Sicilia at 15, Calle Francisco de Ricci. This might be a bit of a long shot for most weekend visitors to Madrid as it is about a thirty minute walk north from Plaza del Sol.  But if you are looking for great, authentic Italian cooking at a great price, then you really need to do yourself a favour and stretch those legs.  The boys in Saperi are the real deal; from the kitchen to the front door Italian all the way and they have taken a huge big leaf out of Mamma's cook book and applied it deliziosamente!  The hand made parcels of home made pasta filled with pear and spek in a creamy Gorgonzola sauce was the nutritional equivalent of a year of psychotherapy.  And only a toothless, gumless, aardvark could turn a nose up at the Canelo with its crisp cracking biscuit coat wrapped around a glorious fondant interior.  Holy St. Francis of Assisi! As though I was not near enough the point of ecstasy, they had to deliver a little shot bottle of Limoncello on the house.  Table for two and with wine less than sixty euro in all!  Some might say this may be heading a little north budget for Madrid but, for quality product, I say unbeatable (www.saporidisicilia.org).


These days when you a signpost for Sushi (I am using this as the generic term for all things fishy, raw and Japanesey!) hanging from an Asian restaurant, there is every chance your getting some chancer the business, but I like my sushi as authentic as it gets (being on the wrong side of the planet and all). If the chef ain't Japanese, I might even settle for a Korean take on the classic eastern delight, but please spare me the big ricey-eggy-fakery.  NIPPON  at Calle Los Madrazos is a Japanese/ Korean  affair with a fine menu from hot authentic Kimchi dishes to Teriyaki and, Yay!!!, great sushi, fresh, perfect temperature (not warm but not too cold) and the best tasting fish.  Shared platters are anything from €20 to €50 and all are adequately generous.  The friendly waiting staff (polite as only the Japanese can be) had little English when we visited and some only had broken Spanish, (no complaint as this could be your chance to practice your Japanese!).  Service is prompt and efficient.  The surroundings are aptly decored with woven table matts, dark wood furnishings and sharply contrasting light and angles.  The tables have ample room between them for diners who cherish their own intimate space or there is an option to eat traditional style (cross legged on the floor).  This is abit uncomfortable for those of us with long gangly legs and creaking hips, but it is a delight to watch the traditional service, including the removal of slippers, bowing and reversing. All great I suppose for the yoga addicts who like to practice while they eat.  Meanwhile, I say stay focused on the scrumptious menu offerings.  Next time I must remember the Sake . . . (http://www.nipponmadrid.com/)


Now about the health service . . . 

Monday, 2 April 2012

HOW MADRID'S SOUTH CAN KEEP YOU FROM LOSING A HAND!


It seems mainly the Senegalese lead the charge - on Sundays particularly. But West Africans of all hues come out to occupy every available bench, wall, pillar, sill - you name name it. They line the courts of courtyards, basketball yards, squares, junctions, crossroads and intersections. They hang from balconies, stair wells, door steps and lean-tos. The patina of magnolia and pale grays that typifies the back streets of the Lavapiès district are suddenly awash with ebony, crimson reds, vibrant greens and yellows and, as well as the boys sporting those traditional knitted caps, others float around in body length garments, mainly silks, of such vibrant colour and design that they might just as well have walked off the set of JOSEPH or AVATAR.  

When the hats are off, the spectacle of hair do’s abounds with a platted intricacy so complex as would make Star Wars casting directors weep and spiders turn to a life of accountancy. Such is the splendour that fills the sun drenched morning streets of southern Madrid.  And the people, such beautiful people, with skin the colour of polished umber, tall, elegant, striding, gather in groups to converse, discuss, argue banter, chat and chide, often in the rhythmic dialects and languages of west Africa. For the Senegalese this means (mostly) Wolof and it is no wonder that a country such as it, with its profusions of indigenous languages, ancient and poetic, would give the world the likes of Youssu N’dour, Baaba Maal, and of course the incomparable Ismael Lo (cut and paste this link to hear Ismael; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_SAWiSPkZaM&feature=related).


I have not been to Senegal although it is high up on my wish list, but I can think of no better way to spend a  Sunday  than  drifting through the lazy back streets of Madrid’s southern Lavapies barrio to soak up such sights, rhythms, sounds and smells as might readily bring you some inclination as to what must be the magic of the legendary west African markets. And what better day for such novel exploration than Palm Sunday, the day of which the Spaniards say: "Domingo de Ramos, quien no estrena algo, se le caen las manos" (the hands fall off him who fails to wear something new on Palm Sunday).


Of course there’s is more to Madrid’s heady mix of ethnicities than the Senegalese or indeed Africans.  Around Calle de Embajadores, generally, you will find every walk of civilisation from Bangladesh to Bolivia and from Laos to Libreville, which is why - if you are looking for for some decent ethnic fare to sate your taste buds - there really is no better place to take a wander and find a table to indulge your culinary fetishes.  (Note: While there are plenty and varied ethnic eateries, good Indian, for example, is definitely not easy to find in Madrid.  The Spaniards (unlike their Mexican cousins) no likey the spicy!  Bizarrely, the Madrileños often refer to Indian food as Hindu food!!! (OMG - LOL), does that make Tapas Catholic or Fish ‘n Chips Protestant?  Anyway, modestly decent Indian food can be got in a number of places especially around Calle Lavapiès.  But die-hards, please note, both Ryanair and Easy Jet have regular flights to London and Dublin for spicy nourishment, alternatively the fastest-cheapest way to India from Spain is via London. (Ah, that might explain . . . duh!).

To walk off the calories, there is no better exercise than heading down to the banks of the Manzares River. Here you will find opening up before you one of Madrid’s favourite weekend playgrounds.  The magnificently reinstated river basin has been decked out in parks and walk-ways, children’s play areas, resting spots, nooks, crannies, knolls, and greens; every conceivable machination of space has been given expression to make what must be one of the finest public recreation areas in Europe and all a few minutes walk from the city centre.  Whether you want to sit back and people watch, rollerblade, stroll, cycle, slide, jump, hop, skip, ramble or crawl, there really is a route, a means and a place for all comers here.  Spectacularly, there is no evidence of much (if any) anti social behaviour (boozers, hobos, drugs, beggars etc), which it has to be said renders the place unusual on a European inspection of similar public recreation areas. Of course, it also can make the place a little sterile at times, but mums with little ones will not be complaining.


Along this fabulous airey space, (albeit quite packed with Madrileños on the weekends) you can work your way eastwards from the Crystal Palace, with its wonderful zoned gardens of tropical and sub tropical plants, towards the impressive Puente de Arguanzuela with its mighty polished steel spirals. Further on you will pass the renowned home of Athletico Madrid (Estadio Vincente Calderon) and finishing up with a stroll through the magnificent gardens of the Campo  del Moro  by which time you should just about be ready for a nice blob of italian ice cream (OK its not Italy, but hey no compromising on ice cream!) in one of the stalls inside the shopping centre at the revamped Estacion de Principe Pio. By the way, that little walk (about an hour and a half) follows part of a  cycle track that circumnavigates Madrid for over 50 Kilometres (one for the bikers!).












The evening stroll back to home brings us into collision with a traditional Palm Sunday procession (around Opera Place) and a biting question. Why do so many tourists head to Seville to see the famed religious processions (with the bearing of the Virgin, the streams of mantilla wearing black clad custodians of the faith and penetant candlebearers in peaked caps)? The by-times errie religiosity of these events reaches a fervour and level of spectacle as, if not more, impressive in the Spanish capital where the crowds are far less over whelming. Oh well, somethings escape explanation. Anyway, here is good short video of what that is all about:-

So there you have it. A day on foot starting in the gritty vibrancy of Lavapiés and ending in the shadow of the plush Royal Palace gardens. It just goes to show what a wonderful place a city can be when it welcomes difference, communities, ethnicities, cultures of all kinds. Madrid is a true leader in this game. Check out this worthy cause:

EPILOGUE

There is another little matter I have not mentioned on the journey through Lavapiés and it is “La Tabacalera y el Laberinto de Miradas” . . . but that is such an amazing find, I have to go back myself to make sure I was not dreaming. To follow . . .!