You know, it is almost ridiculous to suggest venues to savour the tastes of a place that is on the whole synonymous with eating and dining. It is so much easier and potentially appropriate to simply counsel a fellow traveller to go to Madrid; explore and enjoy. It might in any event border on the vain-glorious to nominate any of the thousands of fine establishments that a novice visitor ought not to miss or at least try not to miss in this wondrous Capital city. After all (al fin y all cabo!), where does one begin? But, then there are many who have taken the arrogant road of boasting their favourite spots, the latest trends, the hottest chefs, the quirkiest emporiums, the best churros to be found in the city of seven million souls with probably the same amount of diners, bars, food halls, markets, cake shops, fruit stalls, fishmongers . . need I go on? So, although I am tempted to say that on every corner there is something new or marvellous to behold or ingest (ok there is!), I am not going to break with tradition. There are some things that ought not to be missed. But if you do miss them, then at least know this; what ever you will have experienced by the time you depart the City de Los Reyes Catolicos, you probably will have left with your own piece of magic anyway. So here is just a flavour of some of mine!
1) Madrid is not often associated with the cold, but believe it not on those clear skied January nights, when stiff chill desert winds fill the midnight air on the plateau, the temperatures do drop to zero and below. So what better way to rosy those pinching cheeks and broil a drying oesophagus than with a classic 'Carajillo Quemadito'. Now you can stop just about anywhere for the scalding blended aromas of cognac and coffee, but it really is so much more special when it is made with the spectacle, tenderness and pride that you might imagine Goya applied to his paintings and which you will now rarely find except in the understated but amply trendy surroundings of Cafe Bellanca. Watch and wait in spellbound anticipation as the expert bar staff apply the precision of a watchmaker to the coffee blending, the burning, the sugar carmelisation and the pouring over roasted coffee beans. Oh, and did I mention it costs just two Euro? You know what? It is worth it even - quite possibly - on a Sunday afternoon in August (Just have the ice bucket on standby). Cafe Bellanca can be found at 86, Calle Garcia De Paredes (www.bellanca.es).
2) I need to tell you about my mother's potato stuffing for the Christmas duck, but if I do, I am afraid I will have to answer for the hoards of salivating zealots banging at her door next year for a slice of the action, no can do I regret. Instead, you might find a somewhat similar culinary ecstasy (although I have to qualify that comparison a tad just to avoid the maternal pan across the back of my head!) in the gloriously satisfying 'Croquettas con Jamon' to be had in the genial and atmospheric Rayuela Cafe on Calle Moreria (8), just before the grand Viaduct on Calle Bailen. If you trot down there in the late afternoon, you can take in one of the finest viewing spots for sunset in Madrid before or after you have tucked into your hearty delights and then begun to wonder how you might track down my mother. I suggest you might have more luck meeting Queen Sofia on your a brisk walk back to Cafe Bellanca (see above). Rayuela also hosts frequent art and photographic exhibitions from new artists and with free wifi it is an excellent space for spending an afternoon doing a bit of web browsing, people watching, writing or just chilling. It also has a great bar space downstairs, if you fancy hanging out and working off those potato pies with the party crowd later in the evening! Ole!
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