I feel a little guilty, because my blog is really dedicated to Madrid and here I am about to prattle on about the wonders of the Extremadura. But let’s face it, nine times out of ten, one is going to have to come through Madrid to make one’s way into the rustic stony heartland of the Spanish anthropomorphic, historic, culinary, meteorological and archaeological soul. So let’s start with exiting Madrid for the journey by road to one of those places that has occupied a place in my ambitions-chest-of- drawers since, well, as long as I can recall.
Little will prepare you better for the experience of ancientness, vastness, rurality or the weight of open sky thatn a healthy juxtaposition of a sprawling urban behemoth (such as the national Spanish Capital) with the brutal beauty of what might legitimately be called the “Spanish steppes”. Exiting Madrid is relatively easy. The motorway west effectively starts at our doorstep at Moncloa, so, with few junctions, an early Friday start and a cargo of crunchy breads, jamon, manchego cheese and other delicious sundries we set off into the wild blue yonder.
The drive direct to the Extremaduran capital and UNESCO world heritage city, Caceres, takes just under three hours. We arrive just as night begins to fall and the old medieval city’s illumination, in bronze and ochre light, swells up against an ultramarine sky. The night air is a crisp two degrees - perfect for a brisk walk through the meandering lanes and alleys, skirted by monstrous towers, lit in sienna coloured rock, slate and granite, most (the visible at least) dating back to the eleventh century (although Caceres was founded by the Romans in 30BC). After a couple of hours, we have already marvelled at the imposing Plaza Mayor - flanked by two towers worthy of Babel, delighted in the silent abandonment of the city (no tourists, no crowds) and scouted around several ancient Cathedrals. We climbed to the top of a tower in the Templo de San Francisco Javier and mourned with the dawning realisation that Storks are not in fact Parisien - a mourning sweetly tempered at the spectacle of these giant avian creatures nesting on huge bale-of-hay size nests crowning almost every city pinnacle. 
All this wonderment required the soothing pat of a local Extremaduran vignoble on the oesophagus, the heart, the mind and the belly.
Just off the Plaza Mayor, away from where one might imagine crowds would gather, if there were any, we step inside a local taverna, where the barman, suitably coiffed and attired, as though he stepped out of a 40’s Cagney movie to polish glasses, approaches us with a broad welcoming smile. The local brew is recommended to accompany a selection of tapas, including Pig’s cheek, warm soft cheeses and local hams. La Taperia oozes authentic charm. Locals enjoy a caña and animated chat beside us. The warm oak bar and soft lighting add to the cozy warmth as we watch out a plate window at huddled pedestrians passing in the frosty night air. The sleepy meditative mood is broken for a few moments by a passing brass band, practising for the approaching Semana Santa. They march out of the stone walls and back into the darkness like a train passing through a twilight zone. Then a voice - Otro vino, Señor? Por supesto.
Caceres is an ideal city to base oneself for a tour of the central Extremadura region and from which to travel to the unmissable cities (towns) of Merida and Trujillo, where the delight and spectacle experienced in Caceres will be amplified again and again.
What little of Roman heritage is left visible to the naked eye in Caceres is compensated beyond imagining in Merida some 75 kms south. In fact, there is little elsewhere of ancient Rome to compare with the most incredible of legacies left by that mighty empire in the city named after the rewarded (deserving) soldiers of Emperor Augustus in 25 BC. The former capital of Lusitania is the site of some of the best preserved monumental constructions of ancient Rome including the theatre, which remains in use to this day. But perhaps that which is most stunning of all, though least visually dramatic, is a small stone plaque, which sits in relative isolation in the gardens of the Columbarium Funerario on the edge of the town. Dating from the 1st century, it celebrates the life of a beloved husband who died aged 38. Its final carved testimony is an evocative prayer, which speaks to the humanity of those people from so many thousands years past - it reads “Sit Tibi Terra Levis” (“May the soil be light upon you”). How little we have changed!
Trujillo, lying to the north west of Caceres, can be reached by a stunning circuit drive through the vast open plains of the region dotted here and there with olive groves and local evergreen oak. Characteristic whitewashed pueblos are scattered sparsely through the countryside, often only identifiable thanks to the local church bell tower. Here neighbourliness requires a forty minute walk. Trujilllo stands in marked contrast to the landscape to its west and south. Sitting on a highpoint at the start of a long gradual ascent into the Cordilera del Centro, the city is the birthplace of one of Spain's most notorious conquistadores - Francisco Pizzaro. Typical of many cities in the region, Trujillo was once a Muslim fortification, but its reversal to Spanish Christian control saw much of the pre-existing architecture absorbed into new buildings, especially those of the grand mansions of the “heroes” (such as Pizzarro and Orellana) returning from the new world with enormous wealth and bounty. 
Today, Trujillo remains a compacted town nestled on the top of a rock promontory dominated by, amongst other spectacular sites, the Alcazaba, the time defying Plaza Mayor and numerous monumental churches and mansions of the era of the Spanish empire. The views alone from the north side of the Alcazaba makes this an essential stopping point on any Extremaduran trail.
Back in Caceres for dinner, we opted for a guide book recommendation - El Figon de Eustaquio - which was the right choice. An explosion of garlic infused dishes did not manage to over-power truly sumptious cuts of fine local beef and blood red local Iberian black pork ham all washed down with a well recommended local Coseche. Three of us ate and drank like medieval kings for €100 - a steal and an excellent replenishment in preparation for a protein stealing tour the next day.
In the Parque Nacional de Montfrague, the abundance of natural wild flowers, plants and trees and spectacular displays of elegant birds of prey is something that many might think is only accessible in the great wildernesses of America, Russia or China. Not so. Montfraque has for a number of years now been operating a successful bird protection and reintroduction programme, which means that trekkers and sightseers can enjoy a host of falcons, eagles, owls and other raptors gracing the skies over dramatic landscapes - at times reminiscent of Yosemite Park in California or the Perigord in Southern France. We arrive on a sunny Sunday afternoon and the park is virtually empty. 
A short one hour trek fills our lungs with delicious arctic cold air as we climb to the old Arabic castle fort at 800m overlooking the vastness of the park and the meanderings of the majestic river Tagus, which will eventually make its way to Lisbon and the wide Atlantic Ocean. The park has an excellent network of long and short treks of varying difficulties. At the northern exit point, some 20 kms from the Montfraque ravine, there is the Placensia encampment, which is an idyllic stone village with cabins to rent and excellent facilities for those seeking a several day trekking experience.
For the drive back to Madrid, we opted to take the scenic route via the Valle del Jerte to Tornavacas and on to Avila. At its highest point, the route spirals up to 1300m over the valley offering truly stunning views from the snow capped plateaus. The setting sun, scorching its way through black clouds and leaving faint hints of a navy universe behind, is profoundly reminiscent of El Greco's brilliant skies over "Toledo": so much so, it is hard to imagine that he might not have sat and mused here at some point, pallet in hand. Soon that dreadful sky, however, closed over us. We had not planned on a blizzard to slow down our trip, but after a truly mind-blowing few days, what better way to bid farewell to the Extremadura than with bit of its extreme weather; a fitting bookend to an unforgettable and unreservedly recommendable journey.
Essential Extremadura in 3 days: The basics
1) Car Hire - Citroen C4 Picasso Automatic Diesel with cruise control. €120.00 (all insurances and CDW included) from Altesa Madrid (Auto Europe.com) (FOR: excellent visio-drive makes sightseeing driving a true pleasure, cruise control super on the empty autovias, automatic a major plus for the steep twisting climbs through the Cordillera. AGAINST: juttery reverse, automatic wipers) (Fuel and Tolls 120€ covering 1300kms).
2) Accommodation: Hotel Don Carlos in the old city of Caceres. Includes parking option. Big quiet rooms. Spotless, comfortable, central and ample breakfasts. 2 Nights B&B - €67 PPS with parking.
3) Entry fees to Museums and Sites. Everything is dirt cheap or free (most are ca. 2€ per site). Merida 1 day pass to six of its most important monuments including the Roman Theatre, Colosseum, Circus and Casa Mitreo is 12€. Montfraque Park is free entry.
4) When to go. I cannot complain about late February. It was chilly at night and indeed by day, but fresh crisp air, bright blue skies and having the whole place entirely to ourselves was just magical. Birdwatchers and trekkers might want to prefer March and April or September October for more favourable temperatures. Be warned - Summer in Extremadura is no less than BOILING HOT with temperatures in recent years hitting the mid to late 40s. Parks may be closed due to fire risk in extreme hot weather.
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